Care & Guidelines for your new puppy!
Please read and follow the guide. Your puppy will have just gone through a potentially
stressful situation having to travel to get to you. He/she will require full-time love and
attention to make the easiest possible transition from our home to yours.
Environment: Create a safe and friendly environment for your new puppy by making
sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of puppy’s reach. Move or
remove any poisonous plants. Look at your house from a puppy’s point of view and remove
any hazardous items.
Needed Puppy Items: There are certain things your puppy will need from day one,
so it’s best to purchase these items in
advance, if possible.
• Thick blanket .. fleece is best (needs to be washable)
• Food and water bowls (3 small dishes for now, then bigger dishes as puppy grows)
• Brush and comb
• Safe, appropriate toys (As a general rule, if the toy can fit comfortably in a puppy’s mouth,
it’s too small.)
• High Quality puppy food (small bites/breed formula)Eukanuba/Science Diet/ProPlan
• Pedigree canned puppy food (rice& lamb is best)
• Gerber baby cereal (rice/oatmeal)
• eggs (for scrambling)
• yogurt (plain)
• cottage cheese
• Distilled bottled water
• Heating pad
• Potty pads
• Nutrical (can be purchased from most pet stores)I will provide you with the fist tube
• Toddler play pen/small bath room/laundry room, small area that is big enough for the
puppy to have 3 dishes, potty pad, heating pad & a non heated area (you want your puppy
kept warm but not too hot.
The First Few Days: Decide on a name and use it consistently. Limit visitors for the
first week or so. Keep your puppy in your line of sight at all times for her safety and to
establish correct behavior. Teach your family the proper way to hold a puppy by placing one
hand under the hindquarters and the other under the chest. Never pick up a puppy by the
front paws or scruff of the neck. Do not leave a new puppy unattended with very small
children or other family pets until you’re sure everyone is ready. Everyone needs to decide
on the same commands (verbal & hand) as not to confuse the puppy.
Sleeping Arrangements: During the day your puppy can sleep/nap with you. This
helps the bonding process and makes the puppy feel secure. Offer water and puppy food as
she’ll usually be hungry or thirsty when she wakes up. At night, we prefer that puppies sleep
in their puppy pen or room. She will need a baby blanket on the heating pad for a nice
warm place to get her beauty sleep. Make sure part of the blanket is not on the heating pad
so the puppy can move off of the heating pad if she gets to warm. Dogs are den lovers so a
covered small but adequate sleeping area is best (Pet Taxi/Crate). If you use a crate or taxi
you can put the heating pad under it & a blanket inside. Remember you just brought home a
baby dog not person and he/she needs to be treated as a dog/puppy for optimal behavior
now & for the future. Keep clean water & food near where she sleeps Be sure to take her
outside right after she wakes up & 10- 15 minutes after each meal.
Leaving the puppy unattended: We recommend that you put the puppy in a
baby play pen or small room. Put the heating pad and baby blanket and a chew toy on one
end. On the other end put a potty pad. Be sure to provide dry food and fresh water at all
times.
Change it at least daily.
Socializing: Puppies need to be socialized with other people & pets. It is best to start
socializing your new puppy after he/she is well acclimated to you & his new home &
lifestyle. A good rule of thumb is about 1-2 weeks but you will have to judge by her
personality also.
Feeding: You will receive a small bag of food with your puppy. Keep dry Puppy food and
fresh water accessible at all times. Sometimes the stress of flying and moving to a whole new
group of people will cause your puppy to be stressed to the point that she may not want to
eat. We are asking you to be SURE your puppy is eating. Monitor your puppies intake of
food. He needs to be eating small amounts frequently. You may want to get a jar of turkey,
beef, chicken baby food to keep on hand just in case. Usually they will eat the baby food
when they won’t eat anything else. You may also give your puppy scrambled eggs, yogurt,
cottage cheese & Gerber cereal if he is being finicky. With all of the canned food problems
as of late you might choose to feed a mixture of the above mentioned foods in place of
Pedigree Puppy. AVOID canned/wet foods that have WEAT GLUTEN type products.
Your puppy has been eating High Protein High Carb Puppy food since it started eating on
his own. I recommend you continue this until he/she reaches 1yr of age. There are already
a lot of changes being made to his/her life that could cause stress-related tummy upsets.
Water: We have well water so he /she won’t be used to the same chemicals or additives
found in the water where you live. We recommend buying and using distilled water for the
first couple of weeks. What works best is if you buy a gallon of distilled water. When you’ve
used about half of it fill it up the rest of the way with your tap water so it’s mixed. When you’
ve used about half of the mixture fill it with your tap water again. By the time you’ve used up
that gallon your puppy should easily make the transition to just the tap water where you are
without any undue stress.
While many owners think they’re giving their puppy a treat by giving her milk that is actually
pretty detrimental to your puppy. It will cause diarrhea, often severe. It doesn’t take long for
a puppy as small as yours to become dehydrated from diarrhea. Because of that we are
advising you now to never give your puppy milk. She will be getting all of the calcium and
vitamin D she needs from the puppy food. If you want to supplement with puppy vitamins
that is your choice and won’t hurt your puppy but High Quality puppy foods are a well-
balanced diet and should supply all of your puppy’s nutritional needs. Never feed your
puppy table food. All natural foods (fresh fruits/veggies) are most of the time OK for adult
dogs but preservatives can be VERY harmful to the puppy/dog.
Hypoglycemia (Low blood sugar): Hypoglycemia occurs mainly in Toy breeds of dogs
between six and sixteen weeks of age. Often it is brought on by stress & stressful situations.
It is imperative that you be aware of some of the signs of the onset of an attack of
hypoglycemia. The first signs are those of depression, weakness, loss of appetite, they can
collapse and/or go into seizures. She may be noticeably confused, disoriented, become
drowsy at unusual times, shiver and/or stagger about. The entire sequence of signs is not
always seen so you’ll have to pay close attention to her. Knowing when she is going into a
depressed state can mean the difference between life and death for her.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home or while
being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled, becomes
exhausted from too much playing (½ hr play - 2-3 hrs of rest any from distractions)or has a
digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and
bring on the symptoms.
Most dogs outgrow this condition. As stated before it most commonly affects puppies
between six and sixteen weeks old. However, if she is high strung or has a lot of nervous
energy she will need to be watched carefully and kept in a reasonably calm state.
Treatment of Hypoglycemia: Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of
glucose. BEGIN AT ONCE! Prolonged or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage
to the brain. If you suspect hypoglycemia give her corn syrup, honey or anything that has
sugar in the ingredients. The Nutrical we had you pick up to keep on hand for her is perfect.
She should begin to improve in about 15 - 30 minutes. If she is unconscious she will have to
be given Dextrose intravenously. Call your veterinarian immediately. It may be necessary to
treat for swelling of the brain.
See that she eats at least every 3 to 5 hours. Don’t over tire her or allow her to become
chilled. Play time should be controlled and limited (30 minutes per play session) to prevent
undue stress and tiring. Hypoglycemia must be offset by frequent feedings and/or a treat of
Nutrical. A puppy who does not eat frequently, for whatever reason, is heading for trouble..
Don’t let this information cause any undue worry or stress. We just want you to be informed
so that you can watch for signs and be able to act quickly if it does occur. As long as you
follow the guidelines we’ve given you it is doubtful that your puppy will ever experience
hypoglycemia.
Vet Check-Ups: Shots and de-worming: Your puppy is up to date on shots and de-
worming. We use Galexey 5-way, Intertrac-3, Panacur, Albon, & Marquise. Keep it that
way. You will receive the records, please take them with you when you visit your
veterinarian. If your puppy looks sick TAKE HER TO THE VET! DO NOT WAIT!!
Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species including
canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal infections in North
American animals & can multiply extremely fast in a stressed puppy. Clinical signs of
coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress such as weather changes; weaning;
long automobile or plane rides; relocation to a new home and new owners. The highest
incidence of coccidiosis is in the first 21 days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a
new residence. Your puppy has been treated for coccidiosis regardless if it has shown any
signs of the infection to control any Oocysts that may be hiding in the intestine of the puppy.
We use Marquise. So make sure that you continue treatment for this type of parisit as well!
If your Vet doesn’t talk to you about it then you need to talk to him about it. He/she may
want to do a fecal test to “check it out” but Oocysts are EXTREAMLY difficult to see on a
micro slide, the most accurate test would be to send the sample to a Laboratory. It isn’t
going to hurt your puppy to just Prevent an outbreak of coccidiosis, as it is preventable.
Most puppies/dogs will develop a resistance to coccidiosis after about 14-16 wks of age &
will not require continuous prevention.
House Training: We’ve been working on house training with your puppy by using
puppy training pads. It is a work in progress. There are several methods that can be used for
house training. You may choose to use the training pads, newspapers or even crate train.
Plenty of information is readily available on the internet. Most pet “superstores” even have
video tapes available. One of our favorites can be found at www.
pottytrainingyourpuppyin7days.com. Your life-style and personality will play as much a part
of choosing a method as your puppy. If you have difficulty choosing a method call and we’ll
try to help.
Helpful Information on Chewing
Chewing actually is not such a bad thing for a dog to do. It is necessary to the physical &
mental health of the dog. However, as you might have guessed, the real thing here is not
THAT the dog chews, it is WHAT the dog chews.
Mouthing, is a puppy’s unending desire to bite at your hands, feet, shoes or hemlines.
Because this behavior can be destructive, & hurts, owners usually want it to stop as soon as
possible. Yet one of the biggest mistakes owners make is to come down too hard on a
mouthing puppy.
Mouthing is learning. During the socialization phase of your pet’s development, is what &
what is Not appropriate behavior. He will bite everything that moves. It is your job to teach
him what pressure is acceptable. A new puppy needs to mouth & be corrected repeatedly
when being to rough. A quick, sharp and startling response with a “No” or “Hey” works
with many puppies. Don’t be too harsh in correcting your pet, then he may stop mouthing
and fail to learn to be extremely sensitive to situations where his teeth come into contact with
human skin. A mature dog that has failed to learn the distention could end up injuring
someone.
Chewing Relief: During early development, the puppy chews to sample the taste & texture of
many things in its environment. Chewing also relieves teething pain, tension & strengths the
teeth.
Toys & Tension: Give your pet his very own toys. If you give your pet your old boot
or shoe he might not understand why he can’t chew on any & all of your footwear. Your
articles have your sent & he will have trouble being able separate his things from your
things. Your puppy might get tense when left allow or in the dark for long periods of time.
Meeting the puppy’s behavioral, environmental, nutritional and maintenance needs will help
alleviate boredom. A daily exercise schedule can help while increasing your bond. As your
puppy matures the constant chewing should diminish. But still encourage chewing through
adulthood for good dental heath.
Enjoy your new loved one & keep me posted with family pictures & updates!!
Nakole
stressful situation having to travel to get to you. He/she will require full-time love and
attention to make the easiest possible transition from our home to yours.
Environment: Create a safe and friendly environment for your new puppy by making
sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of puppy’s reach. Move or
remove any poisonous plants. Look at your house from a puppy’s point of view and remove
any hazardous items.
Needed Puppy Items: There are certain things your puppy will need from day one,
so it’s best to purchase these items in
advance, if possible.
• Thick blanket .. fleece is best (needs to be washable)
• Food and water bowls (3 small dishes for now, then bigger dishes as puppy grows)
• Brush and comb
• Safe, appropriate toys (As a general rule, if the toy can fit comfortably in a puppy’s mouth,
it’s too small.)
• High Quality puppy food (small bites/breed formula)Eukanuba/Science Diet/ProPlan
• Pedigree canned puppy food (rice& lamb is best)
• Gerber baby cereal (rice/oatmeal)
• eggs (for scrambling)
• yogurt (plain)
• cottage cheese
• Distilled bottled water
• Heating pad
• Potty pads
• Nutrical (can be purchased from most pet stores)I will provide you with the fist tube
• Toddler play pen/small bath room/laundry room, small area that is big enough for the
puppy to have 3 dishes, potty pad, heating pad & a non heated area (you want your puppy
kept warm but not too hot.
The First Few Days: Decide on a name and use it consistently. Limit visitors for the
first week or so. Keep your puppy in your line of sight at all times for her safety and to
establish correct behavior. Teach your family the proper way to hold a puppy by placing one
hand under the hindquarters and the other under the chest. Never pick up a puppy by the
front paws or scruff of the neck. Do not leave a new puppy unattended with very small
children or other family pets until you’re sure everyone is ready. Everyone needs to decide
on the same commands (verbal & hand) as not to confuse the puppy.
Sleeping Arrangements: During the day your puppy can sleep/nap with you. This
helps the bonding process and makes the puppy feel secure. Offer water and puppy food as
she’ll usually be hungry or thirsty when she wakes up. At night, we prefer that puppies sleep
in their puppy pen or room. She will need a baby blanket on the heating pad for a nice
warm place to get her beauty sleep. Make sure part of the blanket is not on the heating pad
so the puppy can move off of the heating pad if she gets to warm. Dogs are den lovers so a
covered small but adequate sleeping area is best (Pet Taxi/Crate). If you use a crate or taxi
you can put the heating pad under it & a blanket inside. Remember you just brought home a
baby dog not person and he/she needs to be treated as a dog/puppy for optimal behavior
now & for the future. Keep clean water & food near where she sleeps Be sure to take her
outside right after she wakes up & 10- 15 minutes after each meal.
Leaving the puppy unattended: We recommend that you put the puppy in a
baby play pen or small room. Put the heating pad and baby blanket and a chew toy on one
end. On the other end put a potty pad. Be sure to provide dry food and fresh water at all
times.
Change it at least daily.
Socializing: Puppies need to be socialized with other people & pets. It is best to start
socializing your new puppy after he/she is well acclimated to you & his new home &
lifestyle. A good rule of thumb is about 1-2 weeks but you will have to judge by her
personality also.
Feeding: You will receive a small bag of food with your puppy. Keep dry Puppy food and
fresh water accessible at all times. Sometimes the stress of flying and moving to a whole new
group of people will cause your puppy to be stressed to the point that she may not want to
eat. We are asking you to be SURE your puppy is eating. Monitor your puppies intake of
food. He needs to be eating small amounts frequently. You may want to get a jar of turkey,
beef, chicken baby food to keep on hand just in case. Usually they will eat the baby food
when they won’t eat anything else. You may also give your puppy scrambled eggs, yogurt,
cottage cheese & Gerber cereal if he is being finicky. With all of the canned food problems
as of late you might choose to feed a mixture of the above mentioned foods in place of
Pedigree Puppy. AVOID canned/wet foods that have WEAT GLUTEN type products.
Your puppy has been eating High Protein High Carb Puppy food since it started eating on
his own. I recommend you continue this until he/she reaches 1yr of age. There are already
a lot of changes being made to his/her life that could cause stress-related tummy upsets.
Water: We have well water so he /she won’t be used to the same chemicals or additives
found in the water where you live. We recommend buying and using distilled water for the
first couple of weeks. What works best is if you buy a gallon of distilled water. When you’ve
used about half of it fill it up the rest of the way with your tap water so it’s mixed. When you’
ve used about half of the mixture fill it with your tap water again. By the time you’ve used up
that gallon your puppy should easily make the transition to just the tap water where you are
without any undue stress.
While many owners think they’re giving their puppy a treat by giving her milk that is actually
pretty detrimental to your puppy. It will cause diarrhea, often severe. It doesn’t take long for
a puppy as small as yours to become dehydrated from diarrhea. Because of that we are
advising you now to never give your puppy milk. She will be getting all of the calcium and
vitamin D she needs from the puppy food. If you want to supplement with puppy vitamins
that is your choice and won’t hurt your puppy but High Quality puppy foods are a well-
balanced diet and should supply all of your puppy’s nutritional needs. Never feed your
puppy table food. All natural foods (fresh fruits/veggies) are most of the time OK for adult
dogs but preservatives can be VERY harmful to the puppy/dog.
Hypoglycemia (Low blood sugar): Hypoglycemia occurs mainly in Toy breeds of dogs
between six and sixteen weeks of age. Often it is brought on by stress & stressful situations.
It is imperative that you be aware of some of the signs of the onset of an attack of
hypoglycemia. The first signs are those of depression, weakness, loss of appetite, they can
collapse and/or go into seizures. She may be noticeably confused, disoriented, become
drowsy at unusual times, shiver and/or stagger about. The entire sequence of signs is not
always seen so you’ll have to pay close attention to her. Knowing when she is going into a
depressed state can mean the difference between life and death for her.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home or while
being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled, becomes
exhausted from too much playing (½ hr play - 2-3 hrs of rest any from distractions)or has a
digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and
bring on the symptoms.
Most dogs outgrow this condition. As stated before it most commonly affects puppies
between six and sixteen weeks old. However, if she is high strung or has a lot of nervous
energy she will need to be watched carefully and kept in a reasonably calm state.
Treatment of Hypoglycemia: Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of
glucose. BEGIN AT ONCE! Prolonged or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage
to the brain. If you suspect hypoglycemia give her corn syrup, honey or anything that has
sugar in the ingredients. The Nutrical we had you pick up to keep on hand for her is perfect.
She should begin to improve in about 15 - 30 minutes. If she is unconscious she will have to
be given Dextrose intravenously. Call your veterinarian immediately. It may be necessary to
treat for swelling of the brain.
See that she eats at least every 3 to 5 hours. Don’t over tire her or allow her to become
chilled. Play time should be controlled and limited (30 minutes per play session) to prevent
undue stress and tiring. Hypoglycemia must be offset by frequent feedings and/or a treat of
Nutrical. A puppy who does not eat frequently, for whatever reason, is heading for trouble..
Don’t let this information cause any undue worry or stress. We just want you to be informed
so that you can watch for signs and be able to act quickly if it does occur. As long as you
follow the guidelines we’ve given you it is doubtful that your puppy will ever experience
hypoglycemia.
Vet Check-Ups: Shots and de-worming: Your puppy is up to date on shots and de-
worming. We use Galexey 5-way, Intertrac-3, Panacur, Albon, & Marquise. Keep it that
way. You will receive the records, please take them with you when you visit your
veterinarian. If your puppy looks sick TAKE HER TO THE VET! DO NOT WAIT!!
Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species including
canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal infections in North
American animals & can multiply extremely fast in a stressed puppy. Clinical signs of
coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress such as weather changes; weaning;
long automobile or plane rides; relocation to a new home and new owners. The highest
incidence of coccidiosis is in the first 21 days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a
new residence. Your puppy has been treated for coccidiosis regardless if it has shown any
signs of the infection to control any Oocysts that may be hiding in the intestine of the puppy.
We use Marquise. So make sure that you continue treatment for this type of parisit as well!
If your Vet doesn’t talk to you about it then you need to talk to him about it. He/she may
want to do a fecal test to “check it out” but Oocysts are EXTREAMLY difficult to see on a
micro slide, the most accurate test would be to send the sample to a Laboratory. It isn’t
going to hurt your puppy to just Prevent an outbreak of coccidiosis, as it is preventable.
Most puppies/dogs will develop a resistance to coccidiosis after about 14-16 wks of age &
will not require continuous prevention.
House Training: We’ve been working on house training with your puppy by using
puppy training pads. It is a work in progress. There are several methods that can be used for
house training. You may choose to use the training pads, newspapers or even crate train.
Plenty of information is readily available on the internet. Most pet “superstores” even have
video tapes available. One of our favorites can be found at www.
pottytrainingyourpuppyin7days.com. Your life-style and personality will play as much a part
of choosing a method as your puppy. If you have difficulty choosing a method call and we’ll
try to help.
Helpful Information on Chewing
Chewing actually is not such a bad thing for a dog to do. It is necessary to the physical &
mental health of the dog. However, as you might have guessed, the real thing here is not
THAT the dog chews, it is WHAT the dog chews.
Mouthing, is a puppy’s unending desire to bite at your hands, feet, shoes or hemlines.
Because this behavior can be destructive, & hurts, owners usually want it to stop as soon as
possible. Yet one of the biggest mistakes owners make is to come down too hard on a
mouthing puppy.
Mouthing is learning. During the socialization phase of your pet’s development, is what &
what is Not appropriate behavior. He will bite everything that moves. It is your job to teach
him what pressure is acceptable. A new puppy needs to mouth & be corrected repeatedly
when being to rough. A quick, sharp and startling response with a “No” or “Hey” works
with many puppies. Don’t be too harsh in correcting your pet, then he may stop mouthing
and fail to learn to be extremely sensitive to situations where his teeth come into contact with
human skin. A mature dog that has failed to learn the distention could end up injuring
someone.
Chewing Relief: During early development, the puppy chews to sample the taste & texture of
many things in its environment. Chewing also relieves teething pain, tension & strengths the
teeth.
Toys & Tension: Give your pet his very own toys. If you give your pet your old boot
or shoe he might not understand why he can’t chew on any & all of your footwear. Your
articles have your sent & he will have trouble being able separate his things from your
things. Your puppy might get tense when left allow or in the dark for long periods of time.
Meeting the puppy’s behavioral, environmental, nutritional and maintenance needs will help
alleviate boredom. A daily exercise schedule can help while increasing your bond. As your
puppy matures the constant chewing should diminish. But still encourage chewing through
adulthood for good dental heath.
Enjoy your new loved one & keep me posted with family pictures & updates!!
Nakole
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| important Health information! |