| Care & Guidelines for your new puppy! |
Please read and follow the guide. Your puppy will have just gone through a potentially
stressful situation having to travel to get to you. He/she will require full-time love and
attention to make the easiest possible transition from our home to yours.
Environment: Create a safe and friendly environment for your new puppy by
making sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of puppy’s reach.
Move or remove any poisonous plants. Look at your house from a puppy’s point of
view and remove any hazardous items.
Needed Puppy Items: There are certain things your puppy will need from day
one, so it’s best to purchase these items in
advance, if possible.
• Thick blanket .. fleece is best (needs to be washable)
• Food and water bowls (3 small dishes for now, then bigger dishes as puppy grows)
• Brush and comb
• Safe, appropriate toys (As a general rule, if the toy can fit comfortably in a puppy’s
mouth, it’s too small.)
• High Quality puppy food (small bites/breed formula)Eukanuba/Science Diet/ProPlan
• Pedigree canned puppy food (rice& lamb is best)
• Gerber baby cereal (rice/oatmeal)
• eggs (for scrambling)
• yogurt (plain)
• cottage cheese
• Distilled bottled water
• Heating pad
• Potty pads
• Nutrical (can be purchased from most pet stores)I will provide you with the fist tube
• Toddler play pen/small bath room/laundry room, small area that is big enough for the
puppy to have 3 dishes, potty pad, heating pad & a non heated area (you want your
puppy kept warm but not too hot.
The First Few Days: Decide on a name and use it consistently. Limit visitors
for the first week or so. Keep your puppy in your line of sight at all times for her safety
and to establish correct behavior. Teach your family the proper way to hold a puppy
by placing one hand under the hindquarters and the other under the chest. Never pick
up a puppy by the front paws or scruff of the neck. Do not leave a new puppy
unattended with very small children or other family pets until you’re sure everyone is
ready. Everyone needs to decide on the same commands (verbal & hand) as not to
confuse the puppy.
Sleeping Arrangements: During the day your puppy can sleep/nap with you.
This helps the bonding process and makes the puppy feel secure. Offer water and
puppy food as she’ll usually be hungry or thirsty when she wakes up. At night, we
prefer that puppies sleep in their puppy pen or room. She will need a baby blanket
on the heating pad for a nice warm place to get her beauty sleep. Make sure part of
the blanket is not on the heating pad so the puppy can move off of the heating pad if
she gets to warm. Dogs are den lovers so a covered small but adequate sleeping
area is best (Pet Taxi/Crate). If you use a crate or taxi you can put the heating pad
under it & a blanket inside. Remember you just brought home a baby dog not person
and he/she needs to be treated as a dog/puppy for optimal behavior now & for the
future. Keep clean water & food near where she sleeps Be sure to take her outside
right after she wakes up & 10- 15 minutes after each meal.
Leaving the puppy unattended: We recommend that you put the puppy in
a baby play pen or small room. Put the heating pad and baby blanket and a chew toy
on one end. On the other end put a potty pad. Be sure to provide dry food and fresh
water at all times.
Change it at least daily.
Socializing: Puppies need to be socialized with other people & pets. It is best to
start socializing your new puppy after he/she is well acclimated to you & his new
home & lifestyle. A good rule of thumb is about 1-2 weeks but you will have to judge
by her personality also.
Feeding: You will receive a small bag of food with your puppy. Keep dry Puppy
food and fresh water accessible at all times. Sometimes the stress of flying and
moving to a whole new group of people will cause your puppy to be stressed to the
point that she may not want to eat. We are asking you to be SURE your puppy is
eating. Monitor your puppies intake of food. He needs to be eating small amounts
frequently. You may want to get a jar of turkey, beef, chicken baby food to keep on
hand just in case. Usually they will eat the baby food when they won’t eat anything
else. You may also give your puppy scrambled eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese &
Gerber cereal if he is being finicky. With all of the canned food problems as of late
you might choose to feed a mixture of the above mentioned foods in place of
Pedigree Puppy. AVOID canned/wet foods that have WEAT GLUTEN type
products. Your puppy has been eating High Protein High Carb Puppy food since it
started eating on his own. I recommend you continue this until he/she reaches 1yr of
age. There are already a lot of changes being made to his/her life that could cause
stress-related tummy upsets.
Water: We have well water so he /she won’t be used to the same chemicals or
additives found in the water where you live. We recommend buying and using distilled
water for the first couple of weeks. What works best is if you buy a gallon of distilled
water. When you’ve used about half of it fill it up the rest of the way with your tap water
so it’s mixed. When you’ve used about half of the mixture fill it with your tap water
again. By the time you’ve used up that gallon your puppy should easily make the
transition to just the tap water where you are without any undue stress.
While many owners think they’re giving their puppy a treat by giving her milk that is
actually pretty detrimental to your puppy. It will cause diarrhea, often severe. It doesn’t
take long for a puppy as small as yours to become dehydrated from diarrhea.
Because of that we are advising you now to never give your puppy milk. She will be
getting all of the calcium and vitamin D she needs from the puppy food. If you want to
supplement with puppy vitamins that is your choice and won’t hurt your puppy but High
Quality puppy foods are a well-balanced diet and should supply all of your puppy’s
nutritional needs. Never feed your puppy table food. All natural foods (fresh
fruits/veggies) are most of the time OK for adult dogs but preservatives can be VERY
harmful to the puppy/dog.
Hypoglycemia (Low blood sugar): Hypoglycemia occurs mainly in Toy breeds of
dogs between six and sixteen weeks of age. Often it is brought on by stress &
stressful situations. It is imperative that you be aware of some of the signs of the
onset of an attack of hypoglycemia. The first signs are those of depression,
weakness, loss of appetite, they can collapse and/or go into seizures. She may be
noticeably confused, disoriented, become drowsy at unusual times, shiver and/or
stagger about. The entire sequence of signs is not always seen so you’ll have to pay
close attention to her. Knowing when she is going into a depressed state can mean
the difference between life and death for her.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home or
while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled,
becomes exhausted from too much playing (½ hr play - 2-3 hrs of rest any from
distractions)or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the
energy reserves of the liver and bring on the symptoms.
Most dogs outgrow this condition. As stated before it most commonly affects puppies
between six and sixteen weeks old. However, if she is high strung or has a lot of
nervous energy she will need to be watched carefully and kept in a reasonably calm
state.
Treatment of Hypoglycemia: Treatment is directed at restoring blood
levels of glucose. BEGIN AT ONCE! Prolonged or repeated attacks can cause
permanent damage to the brain. If you suspect hypoglycemia give her corn syrup,
honey or anything that has sugar in the ingredients. The Nutrical we had you pick up
to keep on hand for her is perfect. She should begin to improve in about 15 - 30
minutes. If she is unconscious she will have to be given Dextrose intravenously. Call
your veterinarian immediately. It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain.
See that she eats at least every 3 to 5 hours. Don’t over tire her or allow her to
become chilled. Play time should be controlled and limited (30 minutes per play
session) to prevent undue stress and tiring. Hypoglycemia must be offset by frequent
feedings and/or a treat of Nutrical. A puppy who does not eat frequently, for whatever
reason, is heading for trouble..
Don’t let this information cause any undue worry or stress. We just want you to be
informed so that you can watch for signs and be able to act quickly if it does occur.
As long as you follow the guidelines we’ve given you it is doubtful that your puppy will
ever experience hypoglycemia.
Vet Check-Ups: Shots and de-worming: Your puppy is up to date on shots and
de-worming. We use Galexey 5-way, Intertrac-3, Panacur, Albon, & Marquise. Keep it
that way. You will receive the records, please take them with you when you visit your
veterinarian. If your puppy looks sick TAKE HER TO THE VET! DO NOT WAIT!!
Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species
including canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal
infections in North American animals & can multiply extremely fast in a stressed
puppy. Clinical signs of coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress
such as weather changes; weaning; long automobile or plane rides; relocation to a
new home and new owners. The highest incidence of coccidiosis is in the first 21
days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a new residence. Your puppy
has been treated for coccidiosis regardless if it has shown any signs of the infection
to control any Oocysts that may be hiding in the intestine of the puppy. We use
Marquise. So make sure that you continue treatment for this type of parisit as well! If
your Vet doesn’t talk to you about it then you need to talk to him about it. He/she may
want to do a fecal test to “check it out” but Oocysts are EXTREAMLY difficult to see
on a micro slide, the most accurate test would be to send the sample to a
Laboratory. It isn’t going to hurt your puppy to just Prevent an outbreak of
coccidiosis, as it is preventable. Most puppies/dogs will develop a resistance to
coccidiosis after about 14-16 wks of age & will not require continuous prevention.
House Training: We’ve been working on house training with your puppy by
using puppy training pads. It is a work in progress. There are several methods that
can be used for house training. You may choose to use the training pads,
newspapers or even crate train. Plenty of information is readily available on the
internet. Most pet “superstores” even have video tapes available. One of our favorites
can be found at www.pottytrainingyourpuppyin7days.com. Your life-style and
personality will play as much a part of choosing a method as your puppy. If you have
difficulty choosing a method call and we’ll try to help.
Helpful Information on Chewing
Chewing actually is not such a bad thing for a dog to do. It is necessary to the
physical & mental health of the dog. However, as you might have guessed, the real
thing here is not THAT the dog chews, it is WHAT the dog chews.
Mouthing, is a puppy’s unending desire to bite at your hands, feet, shoes or
hemlines. Because this behavior can be destructive, & hurts, owners usually want it
to stop as soon as possible. Yet one of the biggest mistakes owners make is to
come down too hard on a mouthing puppy.
Mouthing is learning. During the socialization phase of your pet’s development, is
what & what is Not appropriate behavior. He will bite everything that moves. It is your
job to teach him what pressure is acceptable. A new puppy needs to mouth & be
corrected repeatedly when being to rough. A quick, sharp and startling response with
a “No” or “Hey” works with many puppies. Don’t be too harsh in correcting your pet,
then he may stop mouthing and fail to learn to be extremely sensitive to situations
where his teeth come into contact with human skin. A mature dog that has failed to
learn the distention could end up injuring someone.
Chewing Relief: During early development, the puppy chews to sample the taste &
texture of many things in its environment. Chewing also relieves teething pain,
tension & strengths the teeth.
Toys & Tension: Give your pet his very own toys. If you give your pet your old
boot or shoe he might not understand why he can’t chew on any & all of your
footwear. Your articles have your sent & he will have trouble being able separate his
things from your things. Your puppy might get tense when left allow or in the dark for
long periods of time. Meeting the puppy’s behavioral, environmental, nutritional and
maintenance needs will help alleviate boredom. A daily exercise schedule can help
while increasing your bond. As your puppy matures the constant chewing should
diminish. But still encourage chewing through adulthood for good dental heath.
Enjoy your new loved one & keep me posted with family pictures & updates!!
Nakole
stressful situation having to travel to get to you. He/she will require full-time love and
attention to make the easiest possible transition from our home to yours.
Environment: Create a safe and friendly environment for your new puppy by
making sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of puppy’s reach.
Move or remove any poisonous plants. Look at your house from a puppy’s point of
view and remove any hazardous items.
Needed Puppy Items: There are certain things your puppy will need from day
one, so it’s best to purchase these items in
advance, if possible.
• Thick blanket .. fleece is best (needs to be washable)
• Food and water bowls (3 small dishes for now, then bigger dishes as puppy grows)
• Brush and comb
• Safe, appropriate toys (As a general rule, if the toy can fit comfortably in a puppy’s
mouth, it’s too small.)
• High Quality puppy food (small bites/breed formula)Eukanuba/Science Diet/ProPlan
• Pedigree canned puppy food (rice& lamb is best)
• Gerber baby cereal (rice/oatmeal)
• eggs (for scrambling)
• yogurt (plain)
• cottage cheese
• Distilled bottled water
• Heating pad
• Potty pads
• Nutrical (can be purchased from most pet stores)I will provide you with the fist tube
• Toddler play pen/small bath room/laundry room, small area that is big enough for the
puppy to have 3 dishes, potty pad, heating pad & a non heated area (you want your
puppy kept warm but not too hot.
The First Few Days: Decide on a name and use it consistently. Limit visitors
for the first week or so. Keep your puppy in your line of sight at all times for her safety
and to establish correct behavior. Teach your family the proper way to hold a puppy
by placing one hand under the hindquarters and the other under the chest. Never pick
up a puppy by the front paws or scruff of the neck. Do not leave a new puppy
unattended with very small children or other family pets until you’re sure everyone is
ready. Everyone needs to decide on the same commands (verbal & hand) as not to
confuse the puppy.
Sleeping Arrangements: During the day your puppy can sleep/nap with you.
This helps the bonding process and makes the puppy feel secure. Offer water and
puppy food as she’ll usually be hungry or thirsty when she wakes up. At night, we
prefer that puppies sleep in their puppy pen or room. She will need a baby blanket
on the heating pad for a nice warm place to get her beauty sleep. Make sure part of
the blanket is not on the heating pad so the puppy can move off of the heating pad if
she gets to warm. Dogs are den lovers so a covered small but adequate sleeping
area is best (Pet Taxi/Crate). If you use a crate or taxi you can put the heating pad
under it & a blanket inside. Remember you just brought home a baby dog not person
and he/she needs to be treated as a dog/puppy for optimal behavior now & for the
future. Keep clean water & food near where she sleeps Be sure to take her outside
right after she wakes up & 10- 15 minutes after each meal.
Leaving the puppy unattended: We recommend that you put the puppy in
a baby play pen or small room. Put the heating pad and baby blanket and a chew toy
on one end. On the other end put a potty pad. Be sure to provide dry food and fresh
water at all times.
Change it at least daily.
Socializing: Puppies need to be socialized with other people & pets. It is best to
start socializing your new puppy after he/she is well acclimated to you & his new
home & lifestyle. A good rule of thumb is about 1-2 weeks but you will have to judge
by her personality also.
Feeding: You will receive a small bag of food with your puppy. Keep dry Puppy
food and fresh water accessible at all times. Sometimes the stress of flying and
moving to a whole new group of people will cause your puppy to be stressed to the
point that she may not want to eat. We are asking you to be SURE your puppy is
eating. Monitor your puppies intake of food. He needs to be eating small amounts
frequently. You may want to get a jar of turkey, beef, chicken baby food to keep on
hand just in case. Usually they will eat the baby food when they won’t eat anything
else. You may also give your puppy scrambled eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese &
Gerber cereal if he is being finicky. With all of the canned food problems as of late
you might choose to feed a mixture of the above mentioned foods in place of
Pedigree Puppy. AVOID canned/wet foods that have WEAT GLUTEN type
products. Your puppy has been eating High Protein High Carb Puppy food since it
started eating on his own. I recommend you continue this until he/she reaches 1yr of
age. There are already a lot of changes being made to his/her life that could cause
stress-related tummy upsets.
Water: We have well water so he /she won’t be used to the same chemicals or
additives found in the water where you live. We recommend buying and using distilled
water for the first couple of weeks. What works best is if you buy a gallon of distilled
water. When you’ve used about half of it fill it up the rest of the way with your tap water
so it’s mixed. When you’ve used about half of the mixture fill it with your tap water
again. By the time you’ve used up that gallon your puppy should easily make the
transition to just the tap water where you are without any undue stress.
While many owners think they’re giving their puppy a treat by giving her milk that is
actually pretty detrimental to your puppy. It will cause diarrhea, often severe. It doesn’t
take long for a puppy as small as yours to become dehydrated from diarrhea.
Because of that we are advising you now to never give your puppy milk. She will be
getting all of the calcium and vitamin D she needs from the puppy food. If you want to
supplement with puppy vitamins that is your choice and won’t hurt your puppy but High
Quality puppy foods are a well-balanced diet and should supply all of your puppy’s
nutritional needs. Never feed your puppy table food. All natural foods (fresh
fruits/veggies) are most of the time OK for adult dogs but preservatives can be VERY
harmful to the puppy/dog.
Hypoglycemia (Low blood sugar): Hypoglycemia occurs mainly in Toy breeds of
dogs between six and sixteen weeks of age. Often it is brought on by stress &
stressful situations. It is imperative that you be aware of some of the signs of the
onset of an attack of hypoglycemia. The first signs are those of depression,
weakness, loss of appetite, they can collapse and/or go into seizures. She may be
noticeably confused, disoriented, become drowsy at unusual times, shiver and/or
stagger about. The entire sequence of signs is not always seen so you’ll have to pay
close attention to her. Knowing when she is going into a depressed state can mean
the difference between life and death for her.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home or
while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled,
becomes exhausted from too much playing (½ hr play - 2-3 hrs of rest any from
distractions)or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the
energy reserves of the liver and bring on the symptoms.
Most dogs outgrow this condition. As stated before it most commonly affects puppies
between six and sixteen weeks old. However, if she is high strung or has a lot of
nervous energy she will need to be watched carefully and kept in a reasonably calm
state.
Treatment of Hypoglycemia: Treatment is directed at restoring blood
levels of glucose. BEGIN AT ONCE! Prolonged or repeated attacks can cause
permanent damage to the brain. If you suspect hypoglycemia give her corn syrup,
honey or anything that has sugar in the ingredients. The Nutrical we had you pick up
to keep on hand for her is perfect. She should begin to improve in about 15 - 30
minutes. If she is unconscious she will have to be given Dextrose intravenously. Call
your veterinarian immediately. It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain.
See that she eats at least every 3 to 5 hours. Don’t over tire her or allow her to
become chilled. Play time should be controlled and limited (30 minutes per play
session) to prevent undue stress and tiring. Hypoglycemia must be offset by frequent
feedings and/or a treat of Nutrical. A puppy who does not eat frequently, for whatever
reason, is heading for trouble..
Don’t let this information cause any undue worry or stress. We just want you to be
informed so that you can watch for signs and be able to act quickly if it does occur.
As long as you follow the guidelines we’ve given you it is doubtful that your puppy will
ever experience hypoglycemia.
Vet Check-Ups: Shots and de-worming: Your puppy is up to date on shots and
de-worming. We use Galexey 5-way, Intertrac-3, Panacur, Albon, & Marquise. Keep it
that way. You will receive the records, please take them with you when you visit your
veterinarian. If your puppy looks sick TAKE HER TO THE VET! DO NOT WAIT!!
Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species
including canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal
infections in North American animals & can multiply extremely fast in a stressed
puppy. Clinical signs of coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress
such as weather changes; weaning; long automobile or plane rides; relocation to a
new home and new owners. The highest incidence of coccidiosis is in the first 21
days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a new residence. Your puppy
has been treated for coccidiosis regardless if it has shown any signs of the infection
to control any Oocysts that may be hiding in the intestine of the puppy. We use
Marquise. So make sure that you continue treatment for this type of parisit as well! If
your Vet doesn’t talk to you about it then you need to talk to him about it. He/she may
want to do a fecal test to “check it out” but Oocysts are EXTREAMLY difficult to see
on a micro slide, the most accurate test would be to send the sample to a
Laboratory. It isn’t going to hurt your puppy to just Prevent an outbreak of
coccidiosis, as it is preventable. Most puppies/dogs will develop a resistance to
coccidiosis after about 14-16 wks of age & will not require continuous prevention.
House Training: We’ve been working on house training with your puppy by
using puppy training pads. It is a work in progress. There are several methods that
can be used for house training. You may choose to use the training pads,
newspapers or even crate train. Plenty of information is readily available on the
internet. Most pet “superstores” even have video tapes available. One of our favorites
can be found at www.pottytrainingyourpuppyin7days.com. Your life-style and
personality will play as much a part of choosing a method as your puppy. If you have
difficulty choosing a method call and we’ll try to help.
Helpful Information on Chewing
Chewing actually is not such a bad thing for a dog to do. It is necessary to the
physical & mental health of the dog. However, as you might have guessed, the real
thing here is not THAT the dog chews, it is WHAT the dog chews.
Mouthing, is a puppy’s unending desire to bite at your hands, feet, shoes or
hemlines. Because this behavior can be destructive, & hurts, owners usually want it
to stop as soon as possible. Yet one of the biggest mistakes owners make is to
come down too hard on a mouthing puppy.
Mouthing is learning. During the socialization phase of your pet’s development, is
what & what is Not appropriate behavior. He will bite everything that moves. It is your
job to teach him what pressure is acceptable. A new puppy needs to mouth & be
corrected repeatedly when being to rough. A quick, sharp and startling response with
a “No” or “Hey” works with many puppies. Don’t be too harsh in correcting your pet,
then he may stop mouthing and fail to learn to be extremely sensitive to situations
where his teeth come into contact with human skin. A mature dog that has failed to
learn the distention could end up injuring someone.
Chewing Relief: During early development, the puppy chews to sample the taste &
texture of many things in its environment. Chewing also relieves teething pain,
tension & strengths the teeth.
Toys & Tension: Give your pet his very own toys. If you give your pet your old
boot or shoe he might not understand why he can’t chew on any & all of your
footwear. Your articles have your sent & he will have trouble being able separate his
things from your things. Your puppy might get tense when left allow or in the dark for
long periods of time. Meeting the puppy’s behavioral, environmental, nutritional and
maintenance needs will help alleviate boredom. A daily exercise schedule can help
while increasing your bond. As your puppy matures the constant chewing should
diminish. But still encourage chewing through adulthood for good dental heath.
Enjoy your new loved one & keep me posted with family pictures & updates!!
Nakole
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